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By sand or by sea: A reporter’s notebook from the heart of two migration crises

I’m driving down a rural, two-lane highway. Outside, the headlights of the car create a small halo in the surrounding darkness. There are no street lights, no houses, no one else on the road. I can’t see the details of what’s around me, but I know there are other people out there – dozens of them, maybe hundreds – picking their way on foot through the wilderness on either side of me under the cover of night.

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